The prestigious British network BBC dedicates a long article to the Vjosa River, entitled "Unparalleled Adventure on Albania's Wild River".
"One of Europe's last wild rivers, the Vjosa flows for some 272 kilometres from the Pindus Mountains in Greece to the Adriatic coast in Albania, flowing through narrow gorges and wide valleys, where its blue-green waters slide past Illyrian ruins, time-worn villages and stark mountain landscapes," writes Dominis Horner for the BBC.
Home to more than 1100 species, including the critically endangered European eel, otters and the rarely seen Egyptian vulture, the Vjosa is more than just a river; it is a lifeline for riverside communities and a symbol of Albanian heritage and renewal.
Its turquoise waters and diverse habitats support wildlife, fishing, agriculture and, increasingly, eco-tourism.
In a historic move, in March 2023, Vjosa was established as the first Wild River National Park in Europe – a status that aims to preserve its unique ecosystem and biodiversity.
“Rivers are among the most endangered habitats in Europe, with less than 10% free-flowing,” says Beth Thoren, director of environmental action at Patagonia, which collaborated with the Albanian government to establish the national park.
Thoren emphasizes the importance of protecting rivers like the Vjosa.
"Standing on the banks of the Vjosa, you realize that you have never seen a truly wild river, without dams, reservoirs or concrete banks restricting its flow," she adds.
Although Vjosa now enjoys protected status, potential threats persist.
Plans for the Kalivac dam, a hydroelectric project on the river, were cancelled in 2021 after public protests, but further pressure is expected.
The construction of Vlora International Airport near the Vjosa-Nartë Lagoon – a vital stopover for migratory birds – has alarmed environmentalists, as has a recent law allowing luxury tourism developments within protected areas.
Major investors like Jared Kushner are now eyeing the Vjosa Delta for high-end resorts, sparking fears that the region could face irreversible changes.
I arrived in the village of Çarshovë and stopped for lunch at a riverside restaurant owned by Ana Janku, a lifelong Vjosa resident. Janku’s restaurant, like many others along the river, is entirely self-sufficient, with everything sourced from her family’s land: vegetables, livestock, and home-baked bread, as well as freshly caught fish (as we spoke, her son Stavro was busy casting his nets).
As I ate fresh pie, goulash, and xaxiki, Janku explained to me how Vjosa has sustained her family for generations, and while she welcomed the national park status, she still worries about future development that could threaten Vjosa.
"This river is everything to us. We took care of it long before it was officially protected," she says.
She also expressed relief for the Kalivaç dam, now abandoned.
"If someone wants to invest in Vjosa, they should make sure they respect it," she says.
Continuing towards the river, I passed through the villages of Kanikol, Strëmbec and Kaludh where the river took on a more communal character. Locals bathed in quieter “pools”, young people jumped off the rocks and fishermen stood quietly by the shore. As I crossed a gorge near Kanikol, an eagle flew and swooped down towards the river.
From Kaludhi to the town of Përmet, I joined a group with the rafting company “Vjosa Explorer” to safely tackle the most treacherous parts of the river.
I spoke with Irma Takon, the passionate owner of the company she founded, "Explorer," eight years ago, to create jobs for young people in the Vjosa River Valley.
"Emigration is one of the biggest problems of our country. The valley is beautiful, but we lack human resources," she says.
Tako also emphasized the need for sustainable development.
"The river is ours and it belongs to everyone, but restrictions are still needed to preserve its biodiversity and the aquatic world it holds. While national park status is an important step, enforcement and vigilance are crucial for the river's future," she says.
I spent the next day bathing in the hot springs in Bënjë (famous not only for their soothing warm waters, but also for the symbolic centuries-old Ottoman-era Kadi Bridge) before driving 20 kilometers to the town of Këlcyra.
From here, the river widens a bit, but the scenery remains dramatic with towering mountains in every direction (roughly 70% of Albania is mountainous). I stopped for a swim and spotted a boat bobbing in and out of the rocks.
The apparent abundance of life in the river is no coincidence – it is the direct result of a collaboration between the Albanian government, local activists and international partners such as Patagonia, EcoAlbania and the Save the Blue Heart of Europe campaign.
These efforts have yielded impressive results: preserving the river's free-flowing waters and thriving habitats, raising awareness of its ecological value, and promoting sustainable practices, all while supporting the cultural and economic well-being of riverside communities.
"The Wild Vjosa River National Park protects more than just nature," said Thoren.
"It was created in consultation with local communities to ensure the preservation of the natural landscape and cultural heritage of the regions through which it flows," she adds.
The next day, I kayaked through the Këlcyra Gorge, one of the most stunning stretches of the Vjosa, where the river flows between steep mountain sides and cascades down cliffs. From here, the journey took a more challenging turn as the current infrastructure and tourism dwindled. What didn’t go away, however, was the rugged grandeur of the landscape, as the river began to unfold into a tangled network of serpentine channels – revealing an otherworldly vista.
Olsi Nika, executive director of EcoAlbania – an environmental organization at the center of the campaign for the status of the Vjosa National Park – spoke about the delicate balance between tourism development and conservation: “Vjosa is not ready for a tourism boom. It has great potential, a mix of nature and culture with trekking, rafting and fishing, but it is undeveloped, almost a blank page. We need infrastructure and plans for tourism while ensuring that we preserve Vjosa for the next generation.”
The cultural depth of the region struck me the next day, as I explored the Illyrian ruins of Bylis, a hilltop city that played a key role in ancient Illyria in the 4th century BC and was later integrated into the Roman province of Epirus Nova, which included parts of present-day Albania and North Macedonia.
Now a key archaeological site with sweeping views of the valley, its preserved fortification walls, theater, and temple serve as reminders of its historic past as a commercial and cultural center from a bygone era.
On the last day, the weather was clear and the wind was blowing as I sailed towards the mouth of the Adriatic.
Vast nets hung from the riverbank, and a lone fisherman in his canoe passed me upstream. As I approached the mouth and turned around the peninsula, the waves hit the side of my small boat with such force that it nearly capsized.
Finally, with my gear submerged in salt water, I emerged into the open sea. The scene before me was nothing short of breathtaking: to my left, the deserted coastline, the distant mountains, their peaks shrouded in cloud; to my right, the endless horizon of the Adriatic. For those last few miles, I felt a deep, meditative calm – a complete surrender to the power of the natural world.
I let the waves carry me to shore, found a path back to civilization, passing some graffiti-filled communist-era bunkers, and descended into the city of Vlora.
With the conclusion of my adventure, I came to two conclusions as clear to me as the waters of the river.
First, the designation of Vjosa as the first Wild River National Park in Europe represents not only an ecological victory for Albania, but also a compelling example of environmental efforts that can extend far beyond the borders of the Balkans.
Its status has the potential to set an inspiring precedent: preserving uninterrupted natural rivers and the interconnected ecosystems they support, while protecting them from threats such as overdevelopment, pollution and habitat loss.
"This national park creates a model for how nature should be preserved," Nika explained.
"It is a living river system that flows freely from source to sea without human intervention – extremely rare today. That this model should come from a small country with its own big problems should give hope to the rest of Europe," she emphasizes.
The second?
The fact that the Vjosa is one of Europe's natural treasures is thanks in no small part to the tireless efforts of conservation groups working behind the scenes and those who live and work along its banks, ensuring that it remains unspoiled.
As Ana said that first day in Çarshova: “I hope the river remains as it has always been and as it is now – natural and wild.”
